Ottawa County Museum Continues to Honor Purple Heart Veterans

 On August 7, 1782, in the waning days of the Revolutionary War, General George Washington established the Badge of Military Merit. Prevented by the Continental Congress from granting commissions and promotions in rank to his soldiers, Washington hoped to encourage and honor meritorious service with this special award. The honored soldier was to wear “over his left breast, the figure of a heart in purple cloth or silk edged with narrow lace and binding.”

After the war, the award of merit was nearly forgotten until the 20^th century when it was revived at the bicentennial of Washington’s birth. In 1942 President Franklin D. Roosevelt authorized the award for all armed services and also to be given posthumously. Congress chartered the Purple Heart Medal in 1958. Presently, more than 1.7 million Purple Hearts have been awarded to our armed forces.

David Barth, a member of the board of directors of the Ottawa County [Ohio]Museum is researching and collecting information and photographs of Purple Heart recipients with connections to Ottawa County. He is asking those who have received the award and the family members of deceased recipients to fill out a Purple Heart Registry form. Those forms will be included in a book that is updated twice each year – August and February.

Mr. Barth can be reached at drb360@gmail.com or by phone at 419-357-2057.

The Ottawa County [Ohio] Museum held its first Purple Heart Day ceremony earlier this year. Thirty-five recipients and families were honored. Their information was compiled in a book titled “Ottawa County’s Heroes: The Stories of the Life and Service of Those with Ties to Ottawa County who were Recipients of the Purple Heart Medal.” This resource book is available for viewing at each county library, Ottawa County Veteran Services Department, and the Ottawa County Museum (126 W. Third St., Port Clinton, Ohio) 

                    

The Purple Heart Medal criteria has gone through many changes over the years. Presently it is awarded to members of the armed forces wounded in combat with an enemy force, posthumously to next of kin of those killed in combat, and those wounded or who died while a prisoner of war (2008).

The Ottawa County Museum has the distinction of of being one of only 15 museums across the nation designated as a Purple Heart Trail Museum. The trail begins at Mount Vernon near the grave site of George Washington. Each trail museum maintains a database of Purple Heart recipients and creates a museum display. Each trail museum honors those who have received the medal at a ceremony held each August 7, the National Purple Heart Day.

John H. Martin: Buffalo Soldier

In July 1866, the United States Congress authorized the formation of the first peacetime all-black regiments in the U.S. Army. The regiments, composed of the 9^th and 10^th Cavalry and the 24^th Infantry (reorganized from the 39^th and 40^th) and the 25^th  Infantry (reorganized from the 38^th and 41^st).

According to the Buffalo Soldiers National Museum in Houston, Texas, the nickname derived from the Cheyenne warriors during the winter of 1877, who thought the soldiers fought like “wild buffalo.” However, Colonel Benjamin Grierson, who commanded the 10^th Cavalry, recalled the name much earlier, during the 1871 campaign against the Comanches. They thought the soldiers’ curly hair like that of the bison. Another source comes from the Plains tribes. They gave them the name because of the bison coats worn by the troops in winter. Eventually, all four regiments proudly became known as the Buffalo Soldiers.       

                                                       

Buffalo Soldier Statue at Leavenworth, Kansas

John H. Martin was born in 1848 in Cleveland, Ohio, to Robert and Emily (Hall) Martin. He had served with the United States Colored Troops during the Civil War. His regiment, the 25^th Infantry, had disbanded along with other USCT in the fall of 1865. But Martin, like many USCT veterans chose to re-enlist with the newly formed black  regiments. According to his obituary, John Martin served as a musician in the 25^th Infantry for fifteen years.                     

The regiments were stationed at Army posts in the Southwest and on the Great Plains They fought during the Indian Wars, built wagon roads, constructed telegraph lines, protected settlements, served as scouts, and escorted the U.S. mail. Portions of the Buffalo Soldier regiments fought the Apache in New Mexico and pursued Victorio in Mexico. Despite their courageous service, many experienced racial prejudice from settlers as well as members of the U.S. Army. The first black commissioned officer to lead the Buffalo Soldiers was Henry O. Flipper, the first African American graduate of West Point in 1877. At least 18 Buffalo Soldiers received the Medal of Honor during the Indian Wars.   

                 

Lt. Henry O. Flipper
Courtesy of West Point

                                  

Following his service, Martin returned to Ohio. On November 4, 1885, he married Mary Ann Davison at Oberlin, Ohio, the daughter of James and Lucy Bell (Roberson) Davison, originally from West Virginia. The couple settled in Fremont, Ohio on Sandusky Avenue and then Whittlesey Street. Martin was employed for many years as a silver polisher at Claus Shear Works. They were the parents of five children. Mary Ann passed away in 1922. John Martin spent his final days at the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Home in Sandusky, Ohio. He died there March 26, 1926 at the age of seventy-seven. Both he and Mary Ann are buried in Fremont’s Oakwood Cemetery. The image below is courtesy of Find A Grave.

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The Grim Reaper

 “Mr. Leezen has the ague and the fever, Eliza the headache. Mr. Thomas Gallagher had the intermittent fever and his son the remitting fever. Many sick at the river at Green Creek. Mr. Rogers is yet hearty, but his housekeeper has another visit from the fever and ague.” These were just a few of the quotes from Josiah Atkins’ letters to his brother back in Ashtabula, Ohio.

In 1824, Josiah, a personable young man, had come to Lower Sandusky [Fremont, Ohio] to manage the sale of lands through the 20 miles of Black Swamp to Perrysburg, Ohio. The tracts were the last federal lands for sale in Ohio. Settlers ditched, grubbed, dug, chopped, and burned their way through a 120- foot right- of-way in the massive quagmire that would become the Maumee and Western Reserve Road.

Like the settlers, Atkins soon became sick himself. He wrote that he was at last freed from the shaking and fever. Yet, he told his brother, “I am not well – there is something hanging or clinging about my springs of life that tells me I am not well. My head is dizzy, my knees are weak, my breath is short. I am anything less than half such a man as I was when I came to this good and great city of Lower (than hell) Sandusky.”

Woodland Mosquito

Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

Some thought it was the foul air and the swamp's gases that was making nearly everyone sick. In reality, it was the ever present mosquitoes that thrived in the pools of stagnant waters. They were the culprits that spread malaria among these early pioneers. Many became so ill, they lay shaking in the cabins, unable to work or care for their families. More than a third who came gave up and moved on. No one really knows the exact death toll.

Mosquitoes carrying malaria not only brought death and misery to the settlers of the Black Swamp, but as far back as the Bronze Age, they contributed to the collapse of the Greek and Egyptian civilizations. For centuries mosquitoes harboring malaria had sapped the strength of armies. At the surrender of Yorktown, nearly half of Cornwallis’ soldiers were unfit for battle due to malaria. According to historian Amanda Foreman, the Panama Canal was only completed because of quinine and better mosquito control. In World War II, General MacArthur believed that for every one of his Pacific Theater divisions, two were unfit to fight because of malaria.

Today, the Grim Reaper continues to take its toll. Each year, more than 400,000 die from malaria throughout the world. Two thirds are children under the age of five. Welcome news has finally come! This year for the first time, the World Health Organization has approved a childhood vaccine against malaria!

Remembering the Great Black Swamp

The Rev. Joseph Badger described the area as "generally low and interspersed with gentle swells of excellent land, well-timbered, but between the ridges lie streams and hideous swamps of two, three, four miles in width. Stretches of mud and water from knee to belly deep to our horses extend from 8 to 10 miles."

The pioneer missionary was describing the Great Black Swamp, that immense low-lying tract of land that dominated the thirty-mile expanse between Ohio's Sandusky and Maumee Rivers.  In total, the swamp covered 1500 square miles and affected a portion of ten of Ohio's counties. So daunting was the swamp that northwest Ohio was the last place settled in all of the state.

Great Black Swamp Map

Courtesy Wikimedia Commons

Beech, oak, hickory, and elm trees reached more than 100 feet above the swamp's jungle-like vegetation, choked streams, and marshes.  The canopy blotted out the sunlight, making the Black Swamp a dark, depressing, and lonely place for many of those first settlers.  It was such a forbidding landscape that even the Native Americans left it to the wolves, snakes, horseflies, and the massive swarms of mosquitoes. 

More than one-third of the pioneers who settled in the Black Swamp gave up and moved on.  It took determination and endurance to remain. The Goll Woods is one place that some remnants of the swamp remain and can be experienced today. Lying a mile and one-half north of Archbold, Ohio, in German Twp., Fulton County is a 321-acre preserve that is believed to be the least disturbed woodland area in this part of the state. 

Immigrants from France, the Peter Goll family purchased 32 acres in Fulton County in 1834. Eventually, the Goll land grew to nearly 600 acres. It remained in the family for generations. The state of Ohio acquired the land from Peter Goll's great granddaughter in 1966 and dedicated it to a nature preserve in 1975. 

Goll Woods

Courtesy of ODNR

The old growth forest has some of the largest trees remaining in the state of Ohio and is truly reminiscent of the Great Black Swamp. Selective cutting only took place once - during World War I. Eighty acres of the preserve is virgin forest that the Goll family called the "Big Woods." You will see 200-to-400-year old trees; some of which have trunks four feet in diameter. There are cottonwood; sycamore; pin, bur, and white oak; pine; ash; and tulip trees. Their canopy is so dense, it still presents the eerie gloom of the Black Swamp that our ancestors felt. To learn more about the Goll Woods, go online to Goll Woods State Nature Preserve. 

Lightning and windstorms have felled come of these majestic trees just as they have for thousands of years. They lay on the swamp's floor, decomposing in the dark shade amid the native wildflowers and wood plants of ferns, lilies, violets, elderberry and raspberry bushes, and Solomon's seal. Look ever so closely and you will see  salamanders, toads, woodpeckers, an occasional wild turkey or a whitetail deer. And, always, always there are the mosquitoes.  For our ancestors, it was a hostile landscape that took everything they had.... and for many - it took their very lives.  For us, it is a natural treasure that gives us an appreciation for what our ancestors experienced in the Great Black Swamp.

  

Lower Sandusky and the U.S. Indian Factory System

Initiated in 1795 by President George Washington and later supported by Thomas Jefferson, a non-profit fur factory system was set up to undercut the influence of British traders with Indian tribes. Washington also believed America would develop better relations with the Indians and in turn reduce Army expenses necessary to protect the frontier. Washington insisted there be no fraud and goods were to be supplied to the Indians at fair prices.  

Government factories were established mostly at forts where soldiers could handle transporting goods and protect against theft and violence. In all 17 factories were created. Lower Sandusky (now Fremont) was the sole Ohio fur factory. It was located at the site of Ft. Stephenson (now the site of Birchard Public Library). It fell under the direction of the older Ft. Wayne agency whose factor was John Johnston, federal Indian Agent. (The restored Johnston Farm and Indian Agency can be visited near Piqua, Ohio). Benjamin Tupper became Lower Sandusky’s first factor, receiving $750 a year. Factors also received $200 for furnishings and $20 each year for upkeep, indicating that houses were also provided for the factors.

Hides of deer, beaver, muskrat, wildcat, bear, otter, fox, mink, and rabbit were traded for the “white man’s goods” all supplied with government funds. Deer hides far outweighed all others.

The private Hudson’s Bay Company and the American Fur Company deeply resented these government, non-profit agencies who paid higher than market prices. In fact, when there was no market at all for deer hides, agencies continued to buy them. Losses escalated with hides suffering from worm and moth damage and transportation problems from Ft. Wayne down the Maumee River. Lack of clerks caused poor baling of hides that needed to be wrapped in smoked elk or deer hides to keep out moths and worms

 

In exchange, Indians traded for beads, bullet molds, fabric, jugs, cups. mugs, tallow, beeswax, traps, muskrat spears, moccasins, drinking glasses, silver arm bands, soap, coffee, blankets, sleigh bells, guns and gun powder, lead, needles, combs and even eye glasses (requested at Lower Sandusky for “old” Indians). Nearly $10,000 of merchandise was sent to Lower Sandusky in the years between 1808 and 1811. Nearby is an 1822 Detroit broadside from the closed Chicago and Green Bay factories, listing goods typically traded.                                                                                     

Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

During the War of 1812, the British and their Indian allies burned Ft. Wayne and massacred Chicago while nearly $4,000 worth of goods were seized at Lower Sandusky. As war descended, then Factor Jacob Varnum fled with others to Delaware, Ohio. The factory did survive and was eventually “restockaded.”

The arrival of Major George Croghan and his victory at Fort Stephenson during the War of 1812 ended the importance of the factory system at Lower Sandusky.

Many thought the system a success because some tribes remained loyal to America during the War of 1812. However, these were mainly philanthropists, religious reformers, and government officials. But like the Chicago agency, the bulk of sales eventually went to white settlers. Much of the trade goods were of poor quality.  Additionally, Washington officials knew little of tribal needs on the frontier. When the losses became exorbitant, the system was declared “useless.” With continued pressure from private trading companies, Congress took steps to abolish the entire program.   

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More about the U.S. Indian Factory System appears in an article by Royal V. Way  in the "Mississippi Valley Historical Review" and in History of the United States Indian Factory System, 1795-1822 by Ora B. Peake.

The Troubles of Charley Loo

Americans of today often struggle with the acceptance of the millions of migrants entering the United States. But native born Americans of the 19th century were no less threatened by the boatloads of immigrants who came by the millions and poured into the United States from around the world. 

They were particularly intolerant of those whose customs and rituals  were far different from their own. They responded by exerting not-so-subtle pressures on newcomers who failed to conform with what they believed was the traditional "American way of life." Those who persisted in what was  termed strange customs found themselves, at the very least, harassed, ostracized, or the but of jokes by neighbors and the local press.

And so it was in May of 1896 when a Fremont (Ohio) Daily News reporter arrived at "Chinatown," then known locally as 313 Garrison Street, the site of the Chinese laundry. He was there to investigate a disturbance that had awakened the neighborhood, and filled the "air with flying pig tails, flat irons, and Chinese swear words."

After much "pig-tail talk," the reporter learned that Charley Loo and his brother were arguing over money. To resolve the matter, the Loos sent for One Lung of Toledo. But it seems One Lung was more interested in Mrs. Loo than in settling the dispute. A "free-for-all" between One Lung and the jealous "washee-washee proprietor" broke out. The police finally gained control and "once more peace reigned supreme in Chinatown"...but not for long.

By noon the following day, the News reporter was rushing back to 313 Garrison, where the drama continued. He and Dr. Thomas found Charley with "barely a pulse and eyes protruding from the sockets." So distressed over his wife's infidelity, Charley decide to end it all by taking "enough opium to kill several ordinary  men." Despite Dr. Thomas' efforts, Charley passed away within hours. 

Struggling to understand the "Chinese chatter," the reporter and undertaker Tschumy attempted to carry out the Loo family instruction as best they could. In fact the customs they found so strange were traditional Tao burial rituals. After the widow washed the body with "buying water," she dressed Charley in his finest clothes, hat, and best sandals. She placed a coin in his mouth, a fan in one hand, a handkerchief in the other. Coins and colored paper surrounded Charley's body as it lay in Tschumy's plain, black coffin with feet toward the door.   

Arriving at Oakwood Cemetery, the Loos prepared to burn Charley's possessions. All was about to go up in smoke when Charley's brother pulled an item belonging to One Lung from the "bonfire." Nothing of the man who had destroyed the Loo marriage must be allowed to enter the "spirit land" with Charley. Ridicule began to give way to respect as the reporter attempted to help Tschumy and the Loos  make Charley's "transition" to the "spirit land."

But it seems the drama would not end! Rumors soon flew around the city that Charley's corpse had been stolen from Oakwood Cemetery. Finally, Loo's brother insisted the body be exhumed. Charley was still there. But he would not remain there forever. Thirteen years later, Loo's brother ordered Charley exhumed once more. This time his remains were bound for China on a ship commissioned by relatives to return him for burial in his homeland...May you always rest in peace Charley Loo!

                                                                                                                                  

General James B. McPherson's 17th Corps Medal

After a siege of more than six weeks, the city of Vicksburg fell on the 4^th of July 1863 to Civil War General Ulysses S. Grant’s Union forces. The honor of leading the victorious troops into the captured stronghold fell to General James B. McPherson’s 17^th Corps of the Army of the Tennessee. As commander of the Union's occupation forces at Vicksburg, McPherson, on the 2^nd of October 1863, authorized a medal to be awarded to officers and enlisted men of the 17^th Corps who displayed “gallant and distinguished service in the field.” Sometimes called the “medal of gold,” it remains among the rarest of Civil War memorabilia.

17th Corps Medal

                

Exactly how many and to whom the medal (pictured above) was awarded is unknown. One who received it was Major L. S. Willard, McPherson’s senior aide-de-camp. He and others of McPherson’s staff accompanied his body to Clyde, Ohio after he was killed during the opening rounds of the Battle of Atlanta. Three weeks later, Willard wrote his friend and comrade Lt. Augustus. C. Blizzard, also a recipient of the medal. 

Lt. A.C. Blizzard
Courtesy of
Harry Blizzard

On August 15^th, Willard wrote from Peoria, Illinois, “I am now at home waiting to see what will be done with me after accompanying the remains of our beloved commander to their last resting place…It was a very sad duty Capt. Gile, Steele, and myself had to perform. It must have been a sad and lonely Head Qtrs. the night of the 22^nd of July with the tent of our beloved General vacant and vacant forever. That Army felt that night as though a loss unrepairable had befallen them; to me the thought was fearful it seemed as though with the death of the General the Army of the Tennessee almost became extinct. His relatives in Ohio felt the loss as only Mothers and Sisters can, everyone paid the greatest respect to the remains.”

After leaving Clyde, Major Willard resigned his commission at Cincinnati and left the military. He had been with the 17^th Corps since the Battle of Shiloh, Today, other war date letters written by Willard are preserved and online at the Newberry Library in Chicago.

General McPherson's 17th Corps Army of the Tennessee
Balfour House, Vicksburg
(Lt. Blizzard standing at far right)
Courtesy of the Old Courthouse Museum

Lt. Blizzard was proud of his appointment to General McPherson's 17th Corps staff. Like Willard, he too resigned shortly after McPherson's death. He returned to Iowa where he lived a long and useful life before his death in Malcome, Iowa in 1909. His obituary mentions his being awarded "the "Medal of Gold" for gallant and distinguished service in the field. Engraved on same, Battles of Shiloh, Corinth, Raymond, Jackson, Champion Hills, and Vicksburg July 4th, 1863"

                                                                  

                                                         

Renowned Phrenologist Nelson Sizer corresponds with John Brown, Jr.

                                                                     

Guest Post by Manuscripts Intern Nate Ricks

      Nelson Sizer's letter to John Brown Jr.

March 26, 1860

John Brown Jr. Collection

 

John Brown’s 1859 raid on Harper’s Ferry, Virginia (and his subsequent execution) solidified Northern and Southern sentiments regarding slavery.  Some began to act out in their own private “attacks,” as demonstrated by a letter found in the Hayes Presidential Library & Museums' collections. 

                                                                       

John Brown Jr.

In March 1860, the noted phrenologist Nelson Sizer conducted a mildly subversive one-man campaign in Virginia. The state had been nicknamed “The Mother of Presidents” by this time for birthing seven chief executives: Washington, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, W.H. Harrison, Tyler, and Taylor.  But Sizer and other abolitionists were scornful of the role Virginia played in violently perpetuating slavery and proudly executing Brown.  He wrote to John Brown, Jr., the grieving eldest son of the martyred abolitionist:

 

“The other day I went to Washington and I walked three miles & across the Potomac bridge for the privilege of spitting on the state of Virginia.  I met a negro slave near the end of the bridge in [Virginia] & asked him if he ever heard of the [Underground Railroad], & his Eyes brightened as he replied, “Yes Massa, heap o’times.”  I said, “Some of your boys get away to a land of freedom on the [Underground Railroad], do they not[?]” He answered, “deed they do, sir.”  I call that tampering with a slave.  I did it out of contempt for the “Mother of Presidents,” and now of a race of braggarts and cowards.”

 

Such personal demonstrations became popular sentiment, leading to the election of Lincoln later that year, and the outbreak of civil war in April 1861.

 

Sizer’s letter to John Brown, Jr. is one of about 600 letters in the John Brown Jr. Collection found in the Hayes Presidential Library’s Charles E. Frohman Collection.  John Brown, Jr. settled at Put-in-Bay, Ohio, and received correspondence from many prominent abolitionists and reformers of the late 19^th Century.  Learn more about this collection: https://www.rbhayes.org/collection-items/charles-e.-frohman-collections/brown-john-jr./

 

Migrant Crisis: Then and Now

During the past two years much has been said and written about immigration at America’s southern border. Unable to house, feed, and care for the thousands entering the country, governors have bussed many to sanctuary cities. In New York City, the mayor was forced to put up migrants in police stations for lack of housing. Such a crisis isn’t new to America. During the 1890s, New York City’s police housed as many as 148,000 immigrants in their barracks each year. According to an article in the Wall Street Journal, Chicago’s population increased by 54% from 1890 to 1900. City commissioners quickly constructed ramshackle tenements for the enormous wave of immigrants that poured into their cities. Thirteen-foot rooms were often occupied by as many as a dozen men. Flophouses charged 25 cents for a cot, locker, and screen. Many who could not afford that amount were forced to use a hammock for 7 cents or a spot on the floor for five. Others slept in the streets despite cold and snow. Unemployment was rampant.

Jacob Riis Photo of Tenements
Courtesy of Library of Congress

There was little or no safety net for those who were weakened by hunger and disease. Saddest of all were the orphaned children who were frequently cared for and fed by the police. What prompted the first change in these enormous slums? It was the work of Jacob Riis. An immigrant himself, Riis came to the United States from Denmark in 1870. Ten years later, he found work as a police reporter and saw, wrote about, and photographed the filth, squalor, poverty, and overcrowded slums. His book “How the Other Half Lives” threw light on the misery of New York City’s poverty-stricken, homeless immigrants. More than his words, it was his photographs of the crowded tenements that effected change. Theodore Roosevelt, then the city’s police commissioner, said “I have read your book and have come to help.” And help he did! 

Tenements were torn down and replaced with decent housing for the city’s population of which a quarter were mired in poverty. Streets were cleaned up. Reformers and missionaries opened day nurseries and schools for thousands of homeless children. “Out placing” by the Children’s Aid society began the Orphan Train Movement that found homes, some good and some ruinous, for more than 200,000 children. Nearly 8,000 were settled in Ohio. (See 2012 post "Following the Orphan Train Riders.")

Roosevelt once said he hoped that coming to the “new land would be a turning point in their lives; wished that they might find there all their dreams had painted for them; and how earnestly he, as a citizen of the great republic; welcomed them to it.” It took years of reform and constant effort to make that promise a reality.

The Croghan Congressional Gold Medal

 Nearly all Sandusky Countians know of the brave defense of Major George Croghan and his men at the Battle of Fort Stephenson during the War of 1812. The 21-year old was brevetted lieutenant colonel for his heroic actions by President Madison.

During and after the war, Congress approved several gold medals for victorious military actions. But it was not until February 1835 that legislators belatedly recognized Colonel Croghan for his defense of Fort Stephenson. In that same resolution, Congress also ordered the president to present swords to six of Croghan’s officers: Captain James Hunter, Lieutenants Cyrus Baylor and John Meek, Ensign Joseph Duncan, and the nearest male representatives of Lieutenant Benjamin Johnson and Ensign Edmund Shipp. 

Croghan Congressional Medal

West Point engineer Washington Hood, who also worked as a portrait copyist, designed the reverse of the Croghan medal. His sketch portrayed the battle scene at Fort Stephenson with three ships in the distance representing Perry's fleet.  According to the “Numismatic News” Hood’s drawing differed from other army medals in that he included the Latin phrase “Par Magna Fuit” (His Share Was Great). The obverse was reserved for a portrait of Croghan to be prepared by Moritz Furst, the Philadelphia Mint’s contract engraver.

Croghan asked his brother, then living in Pittsburgh, to provide Furst with a miniature portrait as a personal sitting was not possible. Furst used Hood’s work and the portrait to create the engraving. He received $1800 for his work. Congress appropriated another $250 to cover the cost of striking the medal, the gold, and a case.

By March of 1836, Furst had completed the medal. However, a year later the medal still remained at the mint! Prodded by an agitated former Secretary of War Lewis Cass, the mint finally shipped the medal to Washington, D. C.   At long last, the Congressional gold medal was presented to Colonel Croghan by President Andrew Jackson - the final War of 1812 medal awarded.

Croghan resigned from the U.S. Army after the War of 1812. He lived in New Orleans where he was appointed a postmaster. He later rejoined the army and in 1825 was promoted to colonel and served as one of two U.S. Army inspectors general. He fought with Zachary Taylor at Monterey in the War with Mexico. Croghan died during the cholera epidemic at New Orleans in 1849. He was originally buried in the family cemetery in Kentucky.

Colonel Croghan’s body was brought to Fremont for re-burial by Colonel Webb C. Hayes. Hayes contacted his descendants, hoping to locate the Congressional gold medal. None appeared to know of its whereabouts.

Using Furst’s original dies, the Philadelphia Mint began producing bronze copies of the medal. “Numismatic News” stated that collectors could still order them as late as 1901. Many museums, including the Hayes Library and Museums hold copies of the bronze medal. The Smithsonian has a dozen in its collection.

  

The Journal of Lt Charles R. Noyes during his days with the Hayeses on the President's Western Trip

 President Hayes began an extended tour through the western United States. It was the first time a sitting president had ever traveled to the West Coast. The journal of Lt. Charles R. Noyes, albeit brief, is one of the few firsthand accounts of Hayes' Western Trip.

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• President Hayes at Yosemite during Western Trip, 1880
• Courtesy of HPLM
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President Rutherford B. Hayes and First Lady Lucy Webb Hayes left Chicago, Illinois, in September  1880.As the President and First Lady's special train steamed westward across the plains, Lt. Noyes discovered his post was one of the scheduled stops. Lt. Noyes, then only twenty-one years of age, introduced himself to the President. Hayes and General William T. Sherman invited Noyes to join the entourage for the four-day trip by rail through Wyoming to Salt Lake City, Utah.

 Lt. Charles Rutherford Noyes was the son of Horatio S. Noyes, a first cousin of President Rutherford B. Hayes. Noyes was born in Newtonville, Massachusetts, in 1858 and graduated from the United States Military Academy in 1879. Following graduation, he was stationed in the West. He later returned to West Point to teach mathematics. In 1898, Noyes married cousin Gertrude Noyes. Major Noyes was severely wounded during the Boxer Rebellion.

 Noyes' daughter Margaret Noyes Goldsmith donated a transcript of her father's journal to the Hayes Presidential Library and Museums in 1956. 

                                                             

                                          Courtesy of Find a Grave

 Journal of Lt. Charles R. Noyes

 Friday, September 3, 1880

 Tomorrow President Hayes, Secretary of War Ramsey, and General Sherman with party will pass through town en route west. Extensive preparations have been in progress for some time to receive them with honor. I wonder if R.B.H. will know me.

 Saturday, September 4, 1880

 All the officers of the Depot with their ladies made an early rise to finish breakfast in time to take the special car which was to carry us to meet the President and his party. We did not get started until eight o'clock, however, and when once we were off we found that we numbered about twenty-five, a committee of gentlemen from town accompanying us with their ladies. We were a jolly party and the fast trip down the road to Egbert, thirty miles, was exhilarating. Arriving there we had not long to wait before the President's special train came along. I do not think the President's party had any intimation of this coming forth to meet them, but when the car had been attached and the proper officials stepped into the President's car to greet him, he at once with others of the party returned to our car and introductions ensued. The President led, and as he was introduced to me, he did not apparently recognize me, so I proceeded to make myself known as the son of his cousin, Horatio Noyes. He had no opportunity to speak with me longer then, and after receiving an introduction to Honorable Secretary of War Ramsey, and to General Sherman, I went with some other officers into the President's car, found there several members of the party among whom was Mrs. Hayes, and to her I at once made myself known. She arose and received me with great cordiality, and at once introduced me to all in the car. It was then that I first met Birchard and Rutherford. Although I did not catch all the names at first I afterwards found out who constituted the party. There were as follows:

The President

General Sherman

Mrs. Hayes

General A. McD. McCook

Mr. Birchard Hayes

Colonel Barr

Mr. Rutherford P. Hayes

Mrs. Hunt

Mrs. Mitchell

Mrs. Audenreid

Mr. Herron

Miss Rachel Sherman

Mrs. Herron

Mr. Furness

Secretary of War Mr. Jamieson

There were five cars in the train, one carrying the baggage, the second, a C.B. & Q. dining car, the third, C.B. & Q. directors car occupied by Secretary of War, General Sherman, and the ladies of their party. The fourth, a Pullman sleeper occupied by General McCook and other gentlemen of the party, also by Colonel and Mrs. Barr and Birchard and Rutherford Hayes. The fifth was the Union Pacific Directors car occupied by the President and his party excluding the boys. After chatting for a few moments with several of those to whom I had been introduced, I invited Miss Sherman to go with me to our car to be introduced to the ladies and gentlemen there. Mrs. Hayes had in the mean time gone back with somebody to be introduced. Upon our return we found the car quite full and everybody talking away as fast as possible with the President, Secretary of War, General Sherman, Mrs. Hayes and others who had come in. After introducing Miss Sherman as far as I could, I left her with some ladies, and finally found myself near a party of ladies of which Mrs. Hayes was the central figure. She was soon called away by some others, much to the regret of Mrs. Nash and Mrs. Heath who were charmed with her conversation, and another lady was introduced - Mrs. Hunt. Just then Rutherford Hayes came in from the President's car and said his father wished to see me. The President had returned to his own car and was conversing with one or two gentlemen as I came in. He bade me take a seat near him and moving close beside me himself asked me several questions about my station and my duties. "Where are you stationed?" "What are your duties?" "How long have you been stationed there?" "Are you much employed, do your duties confine you closely to your post?" To which I replied they did not. "Well, how would you like to go on with us a little way, say to Salt Lake? We would be pleased to have you accompany us." I expressed myself as willing and delighted to accept the invitation. "Who is your commanding officer, to whom should I speak to have you accompany us?" I informed him that Lieutenant Bowman was the proper person, and with the remark that he would speak to him about the matter, he left the car. I happened then to be near Secretary of War who inquired of me if I was a relative of the President, and where I was from. Shortly afterwards Mr. Jamieson who was in charge of the party as _____ inquired of me my name, rank, and station, and I realized that I was booked for a short journey with the President. He told me to report to General Sherman, which I did immediately finding him in our special car conversing with some on the folds there. Upon reporting to him he exclaimed in his quick, peculiar way:

"Oh, you are the young man who is going along with us. Very well, sir, make your preparations as quickly as possible when we reach Cheyenne and be ready when the President returns to the Depot. Don't take your uniform with you - you'll not need it, we are not military at all, simply citizens - just an ordinary suit such as you would wear with the President anywhere. Better take some money along with you too. Got some money? All right, you may need it to come back with. That's all."

His active mind was ready to grasp the situation and able at once to let me know even to such minute details all that I wished to know and without questions on my part.

 We soon reached Cheyenne, and after the party had been conducted to a platform erected for them and as the speech making began, I slipped away, found Lt. Heath's horse and buggy which he had kindly offered, had his man drive me out to the Quartermaster's Depot, and hurrying to my quarters changed my dress uniform for my half dress cits.[citizen's?]. I packed my valise with the necessaries for a four days trip. Then I returned at once to the train. The President and party had in the mean time gone away for a short drive through town and out to Fort Russell. I was surprised to find General Brackett at the Depot in citizen's dress and afterwards learned that he made a great botch of the reception in that he failed to be present at his post when the President passed through and that he had not ordered any review of the troops. Nobody was there to receive the party and in some way a great error was committed. About one o'clock the party returned and as they alighted from the carriages I reported to the President again, and in my new dress was scarcely recognized again. I soon got the opportunity to talk with the boys for a few minutes, and at this moment Rutherford thought he ought to take the time to get shaved, so off he went on a run to the Inter-Ocean Hotel telling Mr. Jamieson to detain the train until his return. I took the opportunity to say goodbye to the ladies and officers at the depot and the adieux from all were most cordial. Major Lord got in some of his ridiculous remarks producing greatest mirth, and his assurance that he was now confidant that I was to be selected to fill General Myer's place as Chief Signal Officer caused considerable merriment. Captain Bowman kindly offered me money and told me to draw on him at the Desert National Bank at Salt Lake for any amount I might need. As I had just drawn my August pay I thought I would have no occasion, and thanked him for the kind offer.

 I then got aboard the train and it soon started. I conversed with Mrs. Mitchell for a few minutes after starting, and inquired what relationship we bore to one another. It seems that her mother was the President's sister, and she herself was therefore his niece. Rather difficult relationship to express.

 As we went along up the steep grade toward Sherman [post station on the Union Pacific Railroad in Albany County, Wyoming] I had the pleasure of a short conversation with the President of a general nature - nothing personal. He remarked that he had great faith in the future of this western land sterile as it appeared at present. He thought that as the country became settled and cultivated and more and more of it ploughed up, the rain in falling upon it would be held where it fell and not run off as now from the dry hard soil into the streams, and as it evaporated from these more extended surfaces would again collect and fall, thus giving more frequent rains and greater amount of vegetation.

 As we reached Sherman, the General interested all the party in pointing out points of interest, and in asking them to guess the distances to large rocks which appeared less than half a mile away. He surprised them with the information that they were five miles distant - distances were so deceptive in the high altitude of Sherman.

 In the course of the afternoon's ride the President inquired about my father and my brothers, and made some very few inquiries about my doings. During this time we went down the slope to Fort Sanders and Laramie City. At Fort Sanders the troops were drawn up in line near the railroad and as the President descended from the train presented arms. Afterwards the officers advanced to the front to meet the officials, and I got out to have a handshake with some of my friends. I saw Ducat and Leyden, also Dodd of the 3rd Cavalry. Ducat and Leyden were of course surprised to see me, and Ducat remarked that he would like to be in my boots. The train stopped only a few minutes, and ten minutes ride brought us to Laramie City. I believe it was just at this time I was struggling with a cinder, which had gotten in my eye, and the President also had met with the same misfortune, and while engaged in removing it he sat beside me and explained the way he usually adopted in ridding himself of a cinder. His theory was that in keeping the eye perfectly quiet for a few minutes not rubbing or interfering with it in any way, a kind of coating would naturally form all about the cinder covering the sharp angles, and then could be worked out without any irritation or injury to the eye. But I did not have time to follow out his rule as we were soon at Laramie and I much needed [to] take a walk about the square with Miss Sherman who wanted to see all there was to be seen. When we returned the President had just finished a few remarks to the assembled crowd in which he referred to the Secretary of War as a man whom he had thought knew much about war, but a good man for the place in time of peace. The Secretary being thus introduced made a few remarks complimentary to the good appearance of the country and people, and soon after the train went off. I then engaged in a game of cribbage with Miss Sherman and beat her the rubber. Returning to the President's car I found Mrs. Hayes, Mrs. Hunt, and Mr. Jamieson singing in the rear compartment of the car, and I joined the party. Mrs. Hayes entertained us then with a recital of the Star Spangled Banner a la Mrs. Landers (?) of Washington, and afterwards Barbara Freitchie was given. Then dinner was announced and I accompanied Mrs. Hayes to the dining car, Mrs. Hayes, Governor Hoyt, and myself sitting at the same table. The party seemed to be divided up into couples and trios at dining, generally occupying the same seats. On the right as we entered the car, Mrs. Hayes usually sat with Dr. Huntington as her usual vis-a-vis; opposite this table were General Sherman, Mrs. Audenreid and Mrs. Hunt; next on the right were the Secretary of War and Miss Sherman; opposite them Colonel and Mrs. Barr and Mr. Furness; next on the right, the President and Mrs. Herron; opposite them, General McCook and whoever happened to be with the party for a way. Last on the right, Mr. Herron and Mrs. Mitchell with one or both of the sons, Birchard and Rutherford. Last on the left, Mr. Jamieson with one of the sons, usually Rutherford.

 While at supper, Governor Hoyt monopolized the conversation with descriptions of his visit to the Indian tribes in the Territory and his ascent of mountains in Colorado. I was slightly bored and I suspect Mrs. Hayes was, too. He talked so incessantly that he got little to eat, and this notwithstanding we were the last to leave the car. Mrs. Hayes partook of almost all the dishes served, and appeared to enjoy her supper or dinner very much. We returned to the President's car, and after some general conversation as we were all sitting in one compartment of the car, games were suggested. First we played "Here comes a ship laden with__." "B" was our letter, then we had several games of "Shouting Proverbs". It was about nine o'clock when Mrs. Jamieson interrupted us with the information that we had reached Fort Steele [Fort Fred Steele located on the Union Pacific Railroad in Carbon County, Wyoming] and officers and men were out to see the party. It was quite dark and of course there was no ceremony. The President did not appear but the Secretary of War and General Sherman spoke a few words to the officers, General Sherman inquiring of Lieutenant King if he was a captain yet. I had the opportunity to shake hands with Beach and say a few words to him. After we were started we bid good night and withdrew to our separate cars. My berth was in the fourth car opposite the one occupied by Rutherford Hayes. We conversed for a few minutes and he informed me that he intended studying up railroad engineering as a profession. Before retiring I wrote a letter home, also wrote up some notes for my journal, and eleven o'clock appeared before I turned in. When passing Rawlins [Wyoming] a crowd of roughs, there, made great demonstrations and frightened some of the ladies, as we afterwards learned. Rawlins is probably the roughest place on the railroad now.

Sunday, September 5, 1880

 The night and early morning were rather cold. Woke up at seven o'clock. Rutherford and Birchard slept later. General McCook said he did not stay awake to see how he slept. The morning found us in alkali soil and sage brush. An occasional cottontail skipped away as we passed and the prairie dogs wiggled their tails and dodged into their holes. A few antelope were seen in the distance. Presently breakfast was announced, and on this occasion I breakfasted with Secretary Ramsey and Miss Sherman. The Secretary was good natured and pleasant. Conversation ran along on general topics, the Secretary punned - what was the difference between a cantelope [sic] and an antelope - only a C (sea), and the breakfast was in every respect first class. While at breakfast we passed Hilliard where numbers of charcoal burning ovens were, and General Sherman informed us that the wood was floated in an artificial narrow canal for fifty miles.

 At Evanston [a city on the Bear River in Wyoming, 75 miles northeast of Salt Lake City, Utah] we saw the same, and there the train stopped to change engines. A fine breakfast had been prepared by the citizens of the place in honor of the President, but he would not stop, as I suspect, because it was Sunday morning and he did not wish to speechify on that day. We walked about the town a little and I was much pleased with its appearance. It was here that Mrs. Mitchell met a nephew of hers, a nice appearing young fellow. There President also invited on the train a Mr. Charles Smith whom I believe he introduced as the youngest member of his old regiment in the War. At Evanston we also saw a couple of Indians, one in citizen's dress, the other, a squaw, in the dress of her people with blanket and buckskin. They were Shoshones. A short ride further during which I had a few moments talk with both Mrs. Hayes and the President and pointed out to them on the map of the Territory the position of Camp on Snake River, and we arrived at a station called Emery [a village in Emery County, Utah], and upon invitation of Rutherford Hayes I ran forward to join a party on the cow-catcher for a ride through Echo Ca–on. 

Echo Canyon
Photo by O'Sullivan, 1869
Courtesy of Library of Congress

There were six of us on the cow-catcher, Mr. Herron, Mrs. Mitchell, Miss Sherman, Rutherford and Birchard, and myself. The President, Mrs. Hayes, Doctor Huntington and Mrs. Herron rode with the engineer in the cab. The ride was down hill all the way and for twenty or twenty-five miles through a most beautiful ca–on with magnificent mountain scenery on both sides. The railroad followed a small stream for several miles which finally flowed into the Weber River [river through the Wasatch Mountains], and then the Weber was followed down. At places the valley was wide enough to allow of fine wheat fields, and the houses were quite numerous, probably all Mormon settlements as we were by this time within the limits of Utah. One crop which we noticed and which covered quite large fields, we afterwards learned was alfalfa or Luzerne [sic]. Its brilliant green color attracted Mr. Herron's attention and no one knew at first what it was. It is said to make excellent fodder for animals and three or four crops can be harvested in a year, giving as many as nine tons to the acre. The wonderful rock formations on both sides of the track and the high cliffs attracted our attention. We noted the Devil's slide, and the Devil's Gate, also the one thousand mile tree, all of which we passed during the ride. The track crossed the stream whose course it followed many times and twice plunged through short tunnels where the very circuitous course of the stream could not be followed. On several occasions, as we sped along, it appeared as though we were about to run full against a mountain side, but just before reaching such places the track by a sudden turn curved through some narrow defile, and thus we passed from open glades to steep sided ca–ons, and back again to open glades and thrifty farms. It was a most delightful ride, and at the end of twenty-five miles we returned to the train much pleased with our experience. This was at Weber, and there we passed the regular east bound train which had brought a special car from Salt Lake City with members of the Reception Committee who had come out to meet the party. We arrived at Ogden at about one P.M. and there found a crowd and a brass band. No speeches were made, the dignitaries did scarcely more than show themselves at the door of the car and bow. General Sherman said they were not traveling to make speeches, had only come out to see the country and "find out what you fellows are about". The President had given the example, which the others followed, refraining from speeches principally on account of the day - the Sabbath.

 The whole train was transferred from the Union Pacific to the track of the Utah Central, and soon we were speeding along toward Salt Lake City. This was another delightful part of the trip. The views across the Lake on our right were charming, and on our left were farms with wheat fields, gardens, and orchards, most of them the properties of Mormons, but all presenting a thrifty appearance. The train made two or three stops to ennable [sic] the people gathered at the stations to catch a glimpse of the President. At one stopping place a great many children were gathered together having numerous banners with Mormon mottoes and devices, apparently Sunday School children. The President stood on the steps shaking hands with many of them, and being desirous that Mrs. Hayes should see the children, he turned to me with the request that I find Mrs. Hayes and invite her to come out on the platform to see the numerous gathering. She joined Mr. Hayes and a great many children passed by them shaking their hands. It was at this station that my attention was called to the domineering spirit of the leaders and the crowd and cringing look of those who were ruled. Of all this crowd one man seemed to have control - independent in thought and act, all others were passive and submissive to the authority exercised by the one, who was probably Bishop or Elder among them. As the train moved away a tall ungainly youth who had been interested in what took place and felt some enthusiasm which he was almost afraid to express, called out in a drawling, hesitating manner, "Three cheers," shrinking back ashamed of his enthusiasm and impudence. The cheers were given but not with much spirit.

 As we went along down, the arrangements were made for distributing the party among the members of the Reception Committee, and assigning to carriages. I was introduced to a Mr. Hollister and found upon arriving at the City that I was to ride to the hotel with this gentleman, Mr. Herron and a Mr. Kimball. We were driven at once to the hotel. There the 14th Infantry band was playing, and upon being shown to the parlors a number of ladies were found waiting, and an informal reception took place. To satisfy the crowd outside President Hayes was obliged to step on the balcony and speak a few words to them, but he excused himself quickly. While in the parlors I met Colonel Trotter and was introduced by him to Mrs. and Miss Chettain, whom Captain Bowman had charged me to find out as they were particular friends of his stopping with General Smith. I had a few minutes pleasant conversation with them, then secured a room or rather was assigned to one by General McCook, but before cleaning up I started away with Mr. Herron, Rutherford and Birchard Hayes, Doctor Huntington and two or three Salt Lake gentlemen to visit the Lake, hardly knowing how much of a trip it would be. A carriage took us to the depot of the Utah Western Railroad (narrow gauge), and at four fifteen we started thence by train for Black Rock, a complimentary ticket for the party being furnished by the superintendant [sic] of the road who accompanied us. The direction of the road was straight across the valley, an hours ride, 22 miles, brought us to our destination. During this ride conversation ran on the question of irrigation and the fertility of the soil. All that land, presenting now a very barren appearance, was reported to be capable of producing great crops, if water could be gotten on it. It is the alkalie [sic] soil covered with sage brush and grease wood which constitutes such a great extent of this western country, and all experience so far goes to show that this land can all be cultivated, if only water can be obtained in sufficient quantities for irrigation. Arriving at Black Rock, we proceeded at once to secure bathing suits and have a bath in the Lake. Most remarkable experience! The water is so saturated with salt that it can hold no more in solution, and its specific gravity is greater than that of the human body, so a person can float for hours without exertion. I floated for five minutes without difficulty, lying on my back with head and toes out of water, and spreading out my arms to keep balanced, for the tendency was to turn over on my side as a barrel hoop would in fresh water if placed in the water with the curve down and the two ends out just above the surface. With a little exertion I could maintain an upright position and walk along without touching bottom. While swimming as in fresh water I experienced difficulty in keeping my feet under water. We were cautioned before entering the water not to let any get into our mouths or eyes, and I was careful to observe this caution. Rutherford Hayes was not so fortunate, and when way out beyond his depth got mouth and eyes full, nearly blinding him for the time being. He struck out for land with his eyes shut and, without presence of mind, tired himself out with his exertions to reach a point where he could touch bottom.

Before returning to the city we took a slight supper in a restaurant near by and climbed to a high rock where we could witness to advantage the setting of the sun. It was a magnificent sunset viewed across the lake and surrounded by such ranges of high mountains, distant twenty or thirty miles and more - the whole scene was beautiful. While on the train returning to the city I sat near the superintendant [sic] of the road, and had a long talk on railroads and various other matters. He said he had been connected with railroads for two years - never received any extended education except such as he could get in this western country and when not obliged to work for his bread, began his career in railroading with a pick and shovel on the Union Pacific Railroad, afterwards became a subcontractor on the same road, and so on. It seems to me his present position is a very desirable one.

 Upon arriving at the hotel I went to my room to clean up, but my valise was not there, somebody else's trunk was, and I concluded some mistake had been made. My room was the one which had originally been assigned to Mrs. Mitchell, but she had gone elsewhere in town, and I found myself place[d] between Mrs. Hayes' room and the two sons! The President occupied another room of the same suite beyond Mrs. Hayes', and all the rooms had doors opening one into another. I waited in the hotel entrance in conversation with McCammon and Murphy, lieutenants of the 14th, until the boys had finished their supper which they had taken without waiting to dress, and Rutherford then made a search for me in his parent's rooms, where my valise was finally found. In the meantime, however, I had missed a royal dinner, as I afterwards learned. I attempted nothing further than a letter to Captain Bowman that evening retiring at about ten. I found the boys already in bed when I repaired to my room, and they were asleep before I turned in.

 Monday, September 6, 1880

 I had a very sound sleep during the night and awaked when called at about six thirty. I dressed in clean linen, and just here I must note my surprise at seeing the garment which one of the boys put on for an undershirt. It was evidently intended for use in an exceedingly warm climate (!), and as it could not possible [sic] withstand the rigors of another passage through was[h] tub and over a wash board, the wearer must have labored for some weeks previous with it to get is money's worth before it was finally doomed.

 While dressing, Mrs. Hayes called at the door, and I withdrew to the boy's room, while one of the sons communicated with his mother at the door leading from my room to hers. Soon after, the President himself came in, in his nightshirt, and inquired who occupied the rooms. Rutherford informed him that he, Birchard, and Noyes occupied them.

 "Ah! And where's Noyes?"

I was standing behind the door in the boys' room in undershirt and drawers and in the act of wiping my face after a wash.

"Here I am, sir," I replied, showing myself.

"Well, what kind of a time are you having, Noyes?"

"Oh splendid time, sir. I have enjoyed myself very much indeed."

"I am glad of that; can't you go along farther with us."

I thought I could if he wanted me to. Then it occurred to him that I was a soldier and traveling under orders

"Have you your orders yet?"

"Yes, sir."

"How does it read?"

"It orders me to accompany you as far as Salt Lake City, return to Ogden and from there return to my station."

"Aha!"

Upon this he returned to his own room, and thereupon all hopes of further invitation were done away with.

 After getting a shave I returned to the hotel and repaired to one of the parlors where breakfast was being served to the Presidential Party. All were seated upon my entrance, except Birchard who entered just about the time I did. It was a very fine breakfast, and everything was well served. At about nine o'clock, everything in our rooms being left in shape to be taken directly to the train, the party was divided up for a ride about the city to see the sights. I went in a carriage with Mrs. Herron, Rutherford Hayes, and a gentleman whose name I did not catch, one of the committee of reception. I wish to make a note here before going further with my account, of the question the President asked at the breakfast table concerning father, and of the pains he took to send his regards, desiring me to give expression to the same when I saw him. My seat was near the President's and beside Birchard. Opposite were Mr. Jamieson, Colonel Barr, and Miss Sherman. Secretary Ramsey occupied the chair at the farther end of the table, opposite the President's, and others of the party were distributed on both sides without any apparent arrangement.

 During our ride we had all points of interest called to our attention. The Lion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, the Tithing House, and the Tabernacle, where we descended from the carriage to take a look at the interior, the janitor in attendance explaining and exhibiting all its wonderful characteristics. The ease with which the human voice could be heard at the most extreme point from the speaker's platform was very remarkable. We could even hear a whisper, hear a man brush his pantaloons, or a pin drop. This was at a distance of two hundred and twenty feet. The President and General Sherman as well as others of the party were very much delighted with this exhibition. The janitor played a few chords on the organ, also. The regular organist was to have been there a little later but we could not wait. In another large building near by, called the Winter Temple, the frescoing on the ceiling and walls was rather remarkable. Another very large temple is in course of construction, and when finished the walls will be a hundred feet high. The carriages did not keep together during the drive; ours passed along some of the principal streets by many beautiful residences, some of them Mormon, others gentile; an old gray haired man standing at his gate as we passed was said to be "old man Wells" who had eight wives, and the Lion House where Brigham Young had had his office and a number of his wives. Opposite this was a magnificent residence in which his favorite wife had lived. Our carriage took us to the top of a hill from which we obtained a magnificent view of the city, the valley, and the high mountains on all hands. One peak in the dim distance was said to be ninety miles away; snow lying on many of the nearer mountains. We returned to the hotel at ten o'clock and the President had a reception at that time; but almost immediately upon reaching the hotel I joined Mr. Herron and Birchard Hayes in a trip to the Warm Sulphur Baths, which we reached in fifteen minutes ride. The bath was very pleasant and refreshing, and we had just time enough to reach the hotel before the procession of carriages was formed for the ride to Fort Douglas. This was a tiresome and dusty ride of three miles, almost all the way up hill, but we arrived in good time. A salute of thirty eight guns was fired as the President's carriage approached the post, and upon entering the gates, the six companies of the 14th Infantry were found drawn up in line to present arms. K Company was on the left of the line near where our carriage stopped, and I recognized Lieutenant Gustin and Captain Carpenter of that company. During our stay at the post, and while the others of the party were partaking of a lunch in General Smith's quarters, I met all the officers of the 14th with whom I was acquainted. Mrs. and Miss Chettam were present, the former apparently having the care of the ceremonies at the house, acting as hostess. Just before leaving I hurried off with Gustin to take a look at the Officers' quarters. They appeared to be substantially built brick quarters, and the post itself presented a very cosy [sic] attractive appearance. From Fort Douglas [military post 3 miles from Salt Lake City] the party was driven directly to the depot where the train was found in readiness, the engine beautifully decked with flags, and at one thirty we started back for Ogden. During this ride I beat Miss Sherman a rubber at cribbage, the[n] took the time to see all the party and make my adieux, thanking the President, General McCook, and Mr. Jamison [sp] for the pleasure I had enjoyed and for several favors. I was much pleased with the cordial adieux from Secretary of War and from General Sherman.

 Upon arriving at Ogden [located in Weber County, Utah, 37 miles north of Salt Lake City] the party changed cars to Central Pacific sleeping cars, and the director's car of the Central Pacific was in readiness for the President. This was the finest car, which I think I ever saw, its upholstery was of the richest, and all its appointments complete.

I had my baggage taken to the hotel which was right at hand, and while the train was being made up, took dinner, afterwards having a final adieux, not leaving the train until it started westward away, and as it went round a curve out of sight, I was left standing on the platform of the railroad station, once more a mere citizen, a spectator.

 I devoted an hour to walking through the town, left a card at Captain Howell's office (Q.M.D.), and in the evening interested myself watching operations during the arrival and departure of trains. Was much interested in the Utah and Northern Railroad, which is a narrow gauge starting from Ogden, running two hundred and fifty miles north into Montana.