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| Sioux Boy's Beaded Shirt Hayes Presidential Library and Museums |
President Rutherford B, Hayes, like U.S. presidents before and after him, received hundreds of gifts during his years in office. Today, the most significant remains the Resolute Desk, which still is present in the White House and was recently refurbished by President Donald Trump. Unlike today, during Hayes' term, there were no rules regarding Presidential gifts. Many, like this exquisite boy's shirt, are on display, featured in exhibits, or are carefully stored. Hayes even returned some gifts to the giver that he believed were too valuable.
This particular item was given to the president in December 1879 by Don't Braid His Hair, a Lakota Sioux who lived on the Pine Ridge Reservation. Fully beaded on an animal hide, the body was folded over with an opening for the neck. The sleeves were also made of folded hide, beaded, and attached to the body. Hide fringe, common among Plains Tribes, was featured at the shirt's bottom.
According to Sioux descendants and others who have studied the material culture of The Indigenous nations of the Great Plains, they believe women's skills in hide tanning, beadwork. and quill embroidery were deeply honored. Using trade in buffalo hides and treaty payments, women purchased the colorful glass beads imported from Belgium and Italy.
Lavishly decorated garments like this boy's shirt showed love for and pride in young children who were encouraged to participate in family and ceremonial events. Distinctive tribal styles developed after the 1850s.This particular shirt was most likely made by an older female relative who had mastered beadwork techniques. Women's skills became a valuable commodity for the Plains culture that continues today.
