President Hayes began
an extended tour through the western United States. It was the first time a
sitting president had ever traveled to the West Coast. The journal of Lt.
Charles R. Noyes, albeit brief, is one of the few firsthand accounts of Hayes'
Western Trip.
- President Hayes at Yosemite during Western Trip, 1880
- Courtesy of HPLM
President Rutherford B. Hayes and First Lady Lucy Webb Hayes left Chicago, Illinois, in September 1880.As the President and First Lady's special train steamed
westward across the plains, Lt. Noyes discovered his post was one of the scheduled
stops. Lt. Noyes, then only twenty-one years of age, introduced himself to the President. Hayes and General William T. Sherman invited Noyes to join the
entourage for the four-day trip by rail through Wyoming to Salt Lake City,
Utah.
Lt. Charles Rutherford Noyes was the son of Horatio S.
Noyes, a first cousin of President Rutherford B. Hayes. Noyes was born in
Newtonville, Massachusetts, in 1858 and graduated from the United States
Military Academy in 1879. Following graduation, he was stationed in the West.
He later returned to West Point to teach mathematics. In 1898, Noyes married
cousin Gertrude Noyes. Major Noyes was severely wounded during the Boxer
Rebellion.
Noyes' daughter Margaret Noyes Goldsmith donated a
transcript of her father's journal to the Hayes Presidential Library and Museums in 1956.
Courtesy of Find a Grave
Journal of Lt. Charles R. Noyes
Friday, September 3, 1880
Tomorrow President Hayes, Secretary of War Ramsey, and
General Sherman with party will pass through town en route west. Extensive
preparations have been in progress for some time to receive them with honor. I
wonder if R.B.H. will know me.
Saturday, September 4, 1880
All the officers of the Depot with their ladies made an
early rise to finish breakfast in time to take the special car which was to
carry us to meet the President and his party. We did not get started until
eight o'clock, however, and when once we were off we found that we numbered
about twenty-five, a committee of gentlemen from town accompanying us with
their ladies. We were a jolly party and the fast trip down the road to Egbert,
thirty miles, was exhilarating. Arriving there we had not long to wait before
the President's special train came along. I do not think the President's party
had any intimation of this coming forth to meet them, but when the car had been
attached and the proper officials stepped into the President's car to greet
him, he at once with others of the party returned to our car and introductions
ensued. The President led, and as he was introduced to me, he did not
apparently recognize me, so I proceeded to make myself known as the son of his
cousin, Horatio Noyes. He had no opportunity to speak with me longer then, and
after receiving an introduction to Honorable Secretary of War Ramsey, and to
General Sherman, I went with some other officers into the President's car,
found there several members of the party among whom was Mrs. Hayes, and to her
I at once made myself known. She arose and received me with great cordiality,
and at once introduced me to all in the car. It was then that I first met
Birchard and Rutherford. Although I did not catch all the names at first I
afterwards found out who constituted the party. There were as follows:
The President
General Sherman
Mrs. Hayes
General A. McD. McCook
Mr. Birchard Hayes
Colonel Barr
Mr. Rutherford P. Hayes
Mrs. Hunt
Mrs. Mitchell
Mrs. Audenreid
Mr. Herron
Miss Rachel Sherman
Mrs. Herron
Mr. Furness
Secretary of War Mr. Jamieson
There were five cars in the train, one carrying the baggage,
the second, a C.B. & Q. dining car, the third, C.B. & Q. directors car
occupied by Secretary of War, General Sherman, and the ladies of their party.
The fourth, a Pullman sleeper occupied by General McCook and other gentlemen of
the party, also by Colonel and Mrs. Barr and Birchard and Rutherford Hayes. The
fifth was the Union Pacific Directors car occupied by the President and his
party excluding the boys. After chatting for a few moments with several of
those to whom I had been introduced, I invited Miss Sherman to go with me to
our car to be introduced to the ladies and gentlemen there. Mrs. Hayes had in
the mean time gone back with somebody to be introduced. Upon our return we
found the car quite full and everybody talking away as fast as possible with
the President, Secretary of War, General Sherman, Mrs. Hayes and others who had
come in. After introducing Miss Sherman as far as I could, I left her with some
ladies, and finally found myself near a party of ladies of which Mrs. Hayes was
the central figure. She was soon called away by some others, much to the regret
of Mrs. Nash and Mrs. Heath who were charmed with her conversation, and another
lady was introduced - Mrs. Hunt. Just then Rutherford Hayes came in from the
President's car and said his father wished to see me. The President had
returned to his own car and was conversing with one or two gentlemen as I came
in. He bade me take a seat near him and moving close beside me himself asked me
several questions about my station and my duties. "Where are you
stationed?" "What are your duties?" "How long have you been
stationed there?" "Are you much employed, do your duties confine you
closely to your post?" To which I replied they did not. "Well, how
would you like to go on with us a little way, say to Salt Lake? We would be
pleased to have you accompany us." I expressed myself as willing and
delighted to accept the invitation. "Who is your commanding officer, to
whom should I speak to have you accompany us?" I informed him that
Lieutenant Bowman was the proper person, and with the remark that he would
speak to him about the matter, he left the car. I happened then to be near
Secretary of War who inquired of me if I was a relative of the President, and
where I was from. Shortly afterwards Mr. Jamieson who was in charge of the
party as _____ inquired of me my name, rank, and station, and I realized that I
was booked for a short journey with the President. He told me to report to
General Sherman, which I did immediately finding him in our special car
conversing with some on the folds there. Upon reporting to him he exclaimed in
his quick, peculiar way:
"Oh, you are the young man who is going along with us.
Very well, sir, make your preparations as quickly as possible when we reach
Cheyenne and be ready when the President returns to the Depot. Don't take your
uniform with you - you'll not need it, we are not military at all, simply
citizens - just an ordinary suit such as you would wear with the President
anywhere. Better take some money along with you too. Got some money? All right,
you may need it to come back with. That's all."
His active mind was ready to grasp the situation and able at
once to let me know even to such minute details all that I wished to know and
without questions on my part.
We soon reached Cheyenne, and after the party had been
conducted to a platform erected for them and as the speech making began, I
slipped away, found Lt. Heath's horse and buggy which he had kindly offered,
had his man drive me out to the Quartermaster's Depot, and hurrying to my
quarters changed my dress uniform for my half dress cits.[citizen's?]. I packed
my valise with the necessaries for a four days trip. Then I returned at once to
the train. The President and party had in the mean time gone away for a short
drive through town and out to Fort Russell. I was surprised to find General
Brackett at the Depot in citizen's dress and afterwards learned that he made a
great botch of the reception in that he failed to be present at his post when
the President passed through and that he had not ordered any review of the
troops. Nobody was there to receive the party and in some way a great error was
committed. About one o'clock the party returned and as they alighted from the
carriages I reported to the President again, and in my new dress was scarcely
recognized again. I soon got the opportunity to talk with the boys for a few
minutes, and at this moment Rutherford thought he ought to take the time to get
shaved, so off he went on a run to the Inter-Ocean Hotel telling Mr. Jamieson
to detain the train until his return. I took the opportunity to say goodbye to
the ladies and officers at the depot and the adieux from all were most cordial.
Major Lord got in some of his ridiculous remarks producing greatest mirth, and
his assurance that he was now confidant that I was to be selected to fill
General Myer's place as Chief Signal Officer caused considerable merriment.
Captain Bowman kindly offered me money and told me to draw on him at the Desert
National Bank at Salt Lake for any amount I might need. As I had just drawn my
August pay I thought I would have no occasion, and thanked him for the kind
offer.
I then got aboard the train and it soon started. I conversed
with Mrs. Mitchell for a few minutes after starting, and inquired what
relationship we bore to one another. It seems that her mother was the
President's sister, and she herself was therefore his niece. Rather difficult
relationship to express.
As we went along up the steep grade toward Sherman [post
station on the Union Pacific Railroad in Albany County, Wyoming] I had the
pleasure of a short conversation with the President of a general nature -
nothing personal. He remarked that he had great faith in the future of this
western land sterile as it appeared at present. He thought that as the country
became settled and cultivated and more and more of it ploughed up, the rain in
falling upon it would be held where it fell and not run off as now from the dry
hard soil into the streams, and as it evaporated from these more extended
surfaces would again collect and fall, thus giving more frequent rains and
greater amount of vegetation.
As we reached Sherman, the General interested all the party
in pointing out points of interest, and in asking them to guess the distances
to large rocks which appeared less than half a mile away. He surprised them
with the information that they were five miles distant - distances were so
deceptive in the high altitude of Sherman.
In the course of the afternoon's ride the President inquired
about my father and my brothers, and made some very few inquiries about my
doings. During this time we went down the slope to Fort Sanders and Laramie
City. At Fort Sanders the troops were drawn up in line near the railroad and as
the President descended from the train presented arms. Afterwards the officers
advanced to the front to meet the officials, and I got out to have a handshake
with some of my friends. I saw Ducat and Leyden, also Dodd of the 3rd Cavalry.
Ducat and Leyden were of course surprised to see me, and Ducat remarked that he
would like to be in my boots. The train stopped only a few minutes, and ten
minutes ride brought us to Laramie City. I believe it was just at this time I
was struggling with a cinder, which had gotten in my eye, and the President
also had met with the same misfortune, and while engaged in removing it he sat
beside me and explained the way he usually adopted in ridding himself of a
cinder. His theory was that in keeping the eye perfectly quiet for a few
minutes not rubbing or interfering with it in any way, a kind of coating would
naturally form all about the cinder covering the sharp angles, and then could
be worked out without any irritation or injury to the eye. But I did not have
time to follow out his rule as we were soon at Laramie and I much needed [to]
take a walk about the square with Miss Sherman who wanted to see all there was
to be seen. When we returned the President had just finished a few remarks to
the assembled crowd in which he referred to the Secretary of War as a man whom
he had thought knew much about war, but a good man for the place in time of
peace. The Secretary being thus introduced made a few remarks complimentary to
the good appearance of the country and people, and soon after the train went
off. I then engaged in a game of cribbage with Miss Sherman and beat her the
rubber. Returning to the President's car I found Mrs. Hayes, Mrs. Hunt, and Mr.
Jamieson singing in the rear compartment of the car, and I joined the party.
Mrs. Hayes entertained us then with a recital of the Star Spangled Banner a la
Mrs. Landers (?) of Washington, and afterwards Barbara Freitchie was given.
Then dinner was announced and I accompanied Mrs. Hayes to the dining car, Mrs.
Hayes, Governor Hoyt, and myself sitting at the same table. The party seemed to
be divided up into couples and trios at dining, generally occupying the same seats.
On the right as we entered the car, Mrs. Hayes usually sat with Dr. Huntington
as her usual vis-a-vis; opposite this table were General Sherman, Mrs.
Audenreid and Mrs. Hunt; next on the right were the Secretary of War and Miss
Sherman; opposite them Colonel and Mrs. Barr and Mr. Furness; next on the
right, the President and Mrs. Herron; opposite them, General McCook and whoever
happened to be with the party for a way. Last on the right, Mr. Herron and Mrs.
Mitchell with one or both of the sons, Birchard and Rutherford. Last on the
left, Mr. Jamieson with one of the sons, usually Rutherford.
While at supper, Governor Hoyt monopolized the conversation
with descriptions of his visit to the Indian tribes in the Territory and his
ascent of mountains in Colorado. I was slightly bored and I suspect Mrs. Hayes
was, too. He talked so incessantly that he got little to eat, and this
notwithstanding we were the last to leave the car. Mrs. Hayes partook of almost
all the dishes served, and appeared to enjoy her supper or dinner very much. We
returned to the President's car, and after some general conversation as we were
all sitting in one compartment of the car, games were suggested. First we
played "Here comes a ship laden with__." "B" was our letter,
then we had several games of "Shouting Proverbs". It was about nine
o'clock when Mrs. Jamieson interrupted us with the information that we had
reached Fort Steele [Fort Fred Steele located on the Union Pacific Railroad in
Carbon County, Wyoming] and officers and men were out to see the party. It was
quite dark and of course there was no ceremony. The President did not appear
but the Secretary of War and General Sherman spoke a few words to the officers,
General Sherman inquiring of Lieutenant King if he was a captain yet. I had the
opportunity to shake hands with Beach and say a few words to him. After we were
started we bid good night and withdrew to our separate cars. My berth was in
the fourth car opposite the one occupied by Rutherford Hayes. We conversed for
a few minutes and he informed me that he intended studying up railroad
engineering as a profession. Before retiring I wrote a letter home, also wrote
up some notes for my journal, and eleven o'clock appeared before I turned in.
When passing Rawlins [Wyoming] a crowd of roughs, there, made great
demonstrations and frightened some of the ladies, as we afterwards learned.
Rawlins is probably the roughest place on the railroad now.
Sunday, September 5, 1880
The night and early morning were rather cold. Woke up at
seven o'clock. Rutherford and Birchard slept later. General McCook said he did
not stay awake to see how he slept. The morning found us in alkali soil and
sage brush. An occasional cottontail skipped away as we passed and the prairie
dogs wiggled their tails and dodged into their holes. A few antelope were seen
in the distance. Presently breakfast was announced, and on this occasion I
breakfasted with Secretary Ramsey and Miss Sherman. The Secretary was good
natured and pleasant. Conversation ran along on general topics, the Secretary
punned - what was the difference between a cantelope [sic] and an antelope -
only a C (sea), and the breakfast was in every respect first class. While at
breakfast we passed Hilliard where numbers of charcoal burning ovens were, and
General Sherman informed us that the wood was floated in an artificial narrow
canal for fifty miles.
At Evanston [a city on the Bear River in Wyoming, 75 miles
northeast of Salt Lake City, Utah] we saw the same, and there the train stopped
to change engines. A fine breakfast had been prepared by the citizens of the
place in honor of the President, but he would not stop, as I suspect, because
it was Sunday morning and he did not wish to speechify on that day. We walked
about the town a little and I was much pleased with its appearance. It was here
that Mrs. Mitchell met a nephew of hers, a nice appearing young fellow. There
President also invited on the train a Mr. Charles Smith whom I believe he
introduced as the youngest member of his old regiment in the War. At Evanston
we also saw a couple of Indians, one in citizen's dress, the other, a squaw, in
the dress of her people with blanket and buckskin. They were Shoshones. A short
ride further during which I had a few moments talk with both Mrs. Hayes and the
President and pointed out to them on the map of the Territory the position of
Camp on Snake River, and we arrived at a station called Emery [a village in
Emery County, Utah], and upon invitation of Rutherford Hayes I ran forward to
join a party on the cow-catcher for a ride through Echo Ca–on.
 |
Echo Canyon
Photo by O'Sullivan, 1869
Courtesy of Library of Congress |
There were six
of us on the cow-catcher, Mr. Herron, Mrs. Mitchell, Miss Sherman, Rutherford
and Birchard, and myself. The President, Mrs. Hayes, Doctor Huntington and Mrs.
Herron rode with the engineer in the cab. The ride was down hill all the way
and for twenty or twenty-five miles through a most beautiful ca–on with
magnificent mountain scenery on both sides. The railroad followed a small
stream for several miles which finally flowed into the Weber River [river
through the Wasatch Mountains], and then the Weber was followed down. At places
the valley was wide enough to allow of fine wheat fields, and the houses were
quite numerous, probably all Mormon settlements as we were by this time within
the limits of Utah. One crop which we noticed and which covered quite large
fields, we afterwards learned was alfalfa or Luzerne [sic]. Its brilliant green
color attracted Mr. Herron's attention and no one knew at first what it was. It
is said to make excellent fodder for animals and three or four crops can be
harvested in a year, giving as many as nine tons to the acre. The wonderful
rock formations on both sides of the track and the high cliffs attracted our
attention. We noted the Devil's slide, and the Devil's Gate, also the one
thousand mile tree, all of which we passed during the ride. The track crossed
the stream whose course it followed many times and twice plunged through short
tunnels where the very circuitous course of the stream could not be followed.
On several occasions, as we sped along, it appeared as though we were about to
run full against a mountain side, but just before reaching such places the
track by a sudden turn curved through some narrow defile, and thus we passed
from open glades to steep sided ca–ons, and back again to open glades and
thrifty farms. It was a most delightful ride, and at the end of twenty-five
miles we returned to the train much pleased with our experience. This was at
Weber, and there we passed the regular east bound train which had brought a
special car from Salt Lake City with members of the Reception Committee who had
come out to meet the party. We arrived at Ogden at about one P.M. and there
found a crowd and a brass band. No speeches were made, the dignitaries did
scarcely more than show themselves at the door of the car and bow. General
Sherman said they were not traveling to make speeches, had only come out to see
the country and "find out what you fellows are about". The President
had given the example, which the others followed, refraining from speeches
principally on account of the day - the Sabbath.
The whole train was transferred from the Union Pacific to
the track of the Utah Central, and soon we were speeding along toward Salt Lake
City. This was another delightful part of the trip. The views across the Lake
on our right were charming, and on our left were farms with wheat fields,
gardens, and orchards, most of them the properties of Mormons, but all
presenting a thrifty appearance. The train made two or three stops to ennable
[sic] the people gathered at the stations to catch a glimpse of the President.
At one stopping place a great many children were gathered together having
numerous banners with Mormon mottoes and devices, apparently Sunday School
children. The President stood on the steps shaking hands with many of them, and
being desirous that Mrs. Hayes should see the children, he turned to me with
the request that I find Mrs. Hayes and invite her to come out on the platform
to see the numerous gathering. She joined Mr. Hayes and a great many children
passed by them shaking their hands. It was at this station that my attention
was called to the domineering spirit of the leaders and the crowd and cringing
look of those who were ruled. Of all this crowd one man seemed to have control
- independent in thought and act, all others were passive and submissive to the
authority exercised by the one, who was probably Bishop or Elder among them. As
the train moved away a tall ungainly youth who had been interested in what took
place and felt some enthusiasm which he was almost afraid to express, called
out in a drawling, hesitating manner, "Three cheers," shrinking back
ashamed of his enthusiasm and impudence. The cheers were given but not with
much spirit.
As we went along down, the arrangements were made for
distributing the party among the members of the Reception Committee, and
assigning to carriages. I was introduced to a Mr. Hollister and found upon
arriving at the City that I was to ride to the hotel with this gentleman, Mr.
Herron and a Mr. Kimball. We were driven at once to the hotel. There the 14th
Infantry band was playing, and upon being shown to the parlors a number of
ladies were found waiting, and an informal reception took place. To satisfy the
crowd outside President Hayes was obliged to step on the balcony and speak a
few words to them, but he excused himself quickly. While in the parlors I met
Colonel Trotter and was introduced by him to Mrs. and Miss Chettain, whom
Captain Bowman had charged me to find out as they were particular friends of
his stopping with General Smith. I had a few minutes pleasant conversation with
them, then secured a room or rather was assigned to one by General McCook, but
before cleaning up I started away with Mr. Herron, Rutherford and Birchard
Hayes, Doctor Huntington and two or three Salt Lake gentlemen to visit the
Lake, hardly knowing how much of a trip it would be. A carriage took us to the
depot of the Utah Western Railroad (narrow gauge), and at four fifteen we
started thence by train for Black Rock, a complimentary ticket for the party
being furnished by the superintendant [sic] of the road who accompanied us. The
direction of the road was straight across the valley, an hours ride, 22 miles,
brought us to our destination. During this ride conversation ran on the
question of irrigation and the fertility of the soil. All that land, presenting
now a very barren appearance, was reported to be capable of producing great
crops, if water could be gotten on it. It is the alkalie [sic] soil covered
with sage brush and grease wood which constitutes such a great extent of this
western country, and all experience so far goes to show that this land can all
be cultivated, if only water can be obtained in sufficient quantities for
irrigation. Arriving at Black Rock, we proceeded at once to secure bathing
suits and have a bath in the Lake. Most remarkable experience! The water is so
saturated with salt that it can hold no more in solution, and its specific
gravity is greater than that of the human body, so a person can float for hours
without exertion. I floated for five minutes without difficulty, lying on my
back with head and toes out of water, and spreading out my arms to keep
balanced, for the tendency was to turn over on my side as a barrel hoop would
in fresh water if placed in the water with the curve down and the two ends out
just above the surface. With a little exertion I could maintain an upright
position and walk along without touching bottom. While swimming as in fresh
water I experienced difficulty in keeping my feet under water. We were
cautioned before entering the water not to let any get into our mouths or eyes,
and I was careful to observe this caution. Rutherford Hayes was not so
fortunate, and when way out beyond his depth got mouth and eyes full, nearly
blinding him for the time being. He struck out for land with his eyes shut and,
without presence of mind, tired himself out with his exertions to reach a point
where he could touch bottom.
Before returning to the city we took a slight supper in a
restaurant near by and climbed to a high rock where we could witness to
advantage the setting of the sun. It was a magnificent sunset viewed across the
lake and surrounded by such ranges of high mountains, distant twenty or thirty
miles and more - the whole scene was beautiful. While on the train returning to
the city I sat near the superintendant [sic] of the road, and had a long talk
on railroads and various other matters. He said he had been connected with
railroads for two years - never received any extended education except such as
he could get in this western country and when not obliged to work for his
bread, began his career in railroading with a pick and shovel on the Union Pacific
Railroad, afterwards became a subcontractor on the same road, and so on. It
seems to me his present position is a very desirable one.
Upon arriving at the hotel I went to my room to clean up,
but my valise was not there, somebody else's trunk was, and I concluded some
mistake had been made. My room was the one which had originally been assigned
to Mrs. Mitchell, but she had gone elsewhere in town, and I found myself
place[d] between Mrs. Hayes' room and the two sons! The President occupied
another room of the same suite beyond Mrs. Hayes', and all the rooms had doors
opening one into another. I waited in the hotel entrance in conversation with
McCammon and Murphy, lieutenants of the 14th, until the boys had finished their
supper which they had taken without waiting to dress, and Rutherford then made
a search for me in his parent's rooms, where my valise was finally found. In
the meantime, however, I had missed a royal dinner, as I afterwards learned. I
attempted nothing further than a letter to Captain Bowman that evening retiring
at about ten. I found the boys already in bed when I repaired to my room, and
they were asleep before I turned in.
Monday, September 6, 1880
I had a very sound sleep during the night and awaked when
called at about six thirty. I dressed in clean linen, and just here I must note
my surprise at seeing the garment which one of the boys put on for an
undershirt. It was evidently intended for use in an exceedingly warm climate
(!), and as it could not possible [sic] withstand the rigors of another passage
through was[h] tub and over a wash board, the wearer must have labored for some
weeks previous with it to get is money's worth before it was finally doomed.
While dressing, Mrs. Hayes called at the door, and I
withdrew to the boy's room, while one of the sons communicated with his mother
at the door leading from my room to hers. Soon after, the President himself
came in, in his nightshirt, and inquired who occupied the rooms. Rutherford
informed him that he, Birchard, and Noyes occupied them.
"Ah! And where's Noyes?"
I was standing behind the door in the boys' room in
undershirt and drawers and in the act of wiping my face after a wash.
"Here I am, sir," I replied, showing myself.
"Well, what kind of a time are you having, Noyes?"
"Oh splendid time, sir. I have enjoyed myself very much
indeed."
"I am glad of that; can't you go along farther with
us."
I thought I could if he wanted me to. Then it occurred to
him that I was a soldier and traveling under orders
"Have you your orders yet?"
"Yes, sir."
"How does it read?"
"It orders me to accompany you as far as Salt Lake
City, return to Ogden and from there return to my station."
"Aha!"
Upon this he returned to his own room, and thereupon all
hopes of further invitation were done away with.
After getting a shave I returned to the hotel and repaired
to one of the parlors where breakfast was being served to the Presidential
Party. All were seated upon my entrance, except Birchard who entered just about
the time I did. It was a very fine breakfast, and everything was well served.
At about nine o'clock, everything in our rooms being left in shape to be taken
directly to the train, the party was divided up for a ride about the city to
see the sights. I went in a carriage with Mrs. Herron, Rutherford Hayes, and a
gentleman whose name I did not catch, one of the committee of reception. I wish
to make a note here before going further with my account, of the question the
President asked at the breakfast table concerning father, and of the pains he
took to send his regards, desiring me to give expression to the same when I saw
him. My seat was near the President's and beside Birchard. Opposite were Mr.
Jamieson, Colonel Barr, and Miss Sherman. Secretary Ramsey occupied the chair
at the farther end of the table, opposite the President's, and others of the
party were distributed on both sides without any apparent arrangement.
During our ride we had all points of interest called to our
attention. The Lion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution, the Tithing House,
and the Tabernacle, where we descended from the carriage to take a look at the
interior, the janitor in attendance explaining and exhibiting all its wonderful
characteristics. The ease with which the human voice could be heard at the most
extreme point from the speaker's platform was very remarkable. We could even
hear a whisper, hear a man brush his pantaloons, or a pin drop. This was at a
distance of two hundred and twenty feet. The President and General Sherman as
well as others of the party were very much delighted with this exhibition. The
janitor played a few chords on the organ, also. The regular organist was to
have been there a little later but we could not wait. In another large building
near by, called the Winter Temple, the frescoing on the ceiling and walls was
rather remarkable. Another very large temple is in course of construction, and
when finished the walls will be a hundred feet high. The carriages did not keep
together during the drive; ours passed along some of the principal streets by
many beautiful residences, some of them Mormon, others gentile; an old gray
haired man standing at his gate as we passed was said to be "old man Wells"
who had eight wives, and the Lion House where Brigham Young had had his office
and a number of his wives. Opposite this was a magnificent residence in which
his favorite wife had lived. Our carriage took us to the top of a hill from
which we obtained a magnificent view of the city, the valley, and the high
mountains on all hands. One peak in the dim distance was said to be ninety
miles away; snow lying on many of the nearer mountains. We returned to the
hotel at ten o'clock and the President had a reception at that time; but almost
immediately upon reaching the hotel I joined Mr. Herron and Birchard Hayes in a
trip to the Warm Sulphur Baths, which we reached in fifteen minutes ride. The
bath was very pleasant and refreshing, and we had just time enough to reach the
hotel before the procession of carriages was formed for the ride to Fort
Douglas. This was a tiresome and dusty ride of three miles, almost all the way
up hill, but we arrived in good time. A salute of thirty eight guns was fired
as the President's carriage approached the post, and upon entering the gates,
the six companies of the 14th Infantry were found drawn up in line to present
arms. K Company was on the left of the line near where our carriage stopped,
and I recognized Lieutenant Gustin and Captain Carpenter of that company.
During our stay at the post, and while the others of the party were partaking
of a lunch in General Smith's quarters, I met all the officers of the 14th with
whom I was acquainted. Mrs. and Miss Chettam were present, the former
apparently having the care of the ceremonies at the house, acting as hostess.
Just before leaving I hurried off with Gustin to take a look at the Officers'
quarters. They appeared to be substantially built brick quarters, and the post
itself presented a very cosy [sic] attractive appearance. From Fort Douglas
[military post 3 miles from Salt Lake City] the party was driven directly to
the depot where the train was found in readiness, the engine beautifully decked
with flags, and at one thirty we started back for Ogden. During this ride I
beat Miss Sherman a rubber at cribbage, the[n] took the time to see all the
party and make my adieux, thanking the President, General McCook, and Mr.
Jamison [sp] for the pleasure I had enjoyed and for several favors. I was much
pleased with the cordial adieux from Secretary of War and from General Sherman.
Upon arriving at Ogden [located in Weber County, Utah, 37
miles north of Salt Lake City] the party changed cars to Central Pacific
sleeping cars, and the director's car of the Central Pacific was in readiness
for the President. This was the finest car, which I think I ever saw, its
upholstery was of the richest, and all its appointments complete.
I had my baggage taken to the hotel which was right at hand,
and while the train was being made up, took dinner, afterwards having a final
adieux, not leaving the train until it started westward away, and as it went
round a curve out of sight, I was left standing on the platform of the railroad
station, once more a mere citizen, a spectator.
I devoted an hour to walking through the town,
left a card at Captain Howell's office (Q.M.D.), and in the evening interested
myself watching operations during the arrival and departure of trains. Was much
interested in the Utah and Northern Railroad, which is a narrow gauge starting
from Ogden, running two hundred and fifty miles north into Montana.
